Early alarms ring. The night previous, I got everything ready for an early morning surf; wetsuit in a bag, bikinis on hand, fresh bread rolls and some peanut butter. My bike was prepared with a board rack that I put on with amateur skills. I tiptoed into the bathroom, every move sounding like an earthquake in a house of pure silence. After readying myself, spreading peanut butter over fragrant bread, and wrapping them up. I left the house, after much struggle, with board under arm, approaching the new day in a frothed nature. As I rode my bike up the hill, I noticed a slight fog soon to cover the world in its warm blanket.
The waves were big; 6-8ft. The bay, washed out. The sun hadn’t come up yet. The sky, crisp with light. It was cold. My wetsuit, slipped on without much ease, as I bit into my first peanut butter roll. I hit the water. It stung my skin, prickled my limbs and pinched my cheeks. Each duck dive, as painful as the previous, chills wrapping around my bones, biting at my head. My first wave, I was sucked over the falls, entering a room of pure darkness. My second wave repeated this process. However, I made the drop on my third. My foot was planted firmly onto the block at the back of my tail pad. I drove off the bottom with a large bottom turn. Went completely vertical and hit the lip, turning with power. On my landing, my foot slipped and I, once again, entered a room of darkness.
After several more waves were caught, and two more reos were completed, fog was blown across the land, and the ocean. Soon, I could no longer see where the sea hugged the land, or where the ocean kissed the sky. I was completely alone. The ocean was raw, powerful, and completely unpredictable. I waited, as large sets would appear from the abyss, rolling me. The water was like green glass during lulls. It was grey all around me. The cold spray of the sea blinding my very limited vision.
A gold sphere was spit out over the hills. Soon the fog was dissolved by the warmth of the sun. I rode waves of liquid gold, until the turbulence of the rising swell made me go in.